Wednesday, March 24, 2010

El fin de exámenes, y más importante, ¡GALLETAS!

The end of exams, and more importantly, COOKIES!

Good news all around! I had my last midterm today, which was easy for me only because it was for my major. I think that exam would have been really difficult for me if I hadn't already taken an Islamic art course. Tomorrow I have Arabic in the morning, and on Friday I fly to London for my birthday, and then I'm off to Venice! Now that I'm not studying and miserable I'm so excited for the next week.

My wonderful mommy sent me a package with treasures like peanut butter and chocolate chip cookie mix. I didn't realize just how American these things are. Anabel loves chocolate chip cookies but had never made them the right way, which of course involves eating a bit of the raw dough and then licking the bowl ("lamando el ból"). She was horrified at first when I stuck my finger into the dough, but she really liked it! She was so impressed by how easy American cooking is. I said we don't usually cook like that, it's for overworked moms and cooking with kids, but she was impressed that we even had the option. Also it was really nice to just hang out with her and have fun. Usually we're eating lunch and watching the news, and I was glad to finally bond a little bit more. Actually they should be just about ready now so I'm gonna go eat some fresh-baked, all-American gooey goodness. Love to you all!

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Embrujo de la Alhambra

The magic of the Alhambra

Note: this is also the name of a delicious tea they sell here.

Yesterday for our visita de arte y arquitectura, we went to the Alhambra. More specifically, we went to the part of the Alhambra that is not open to tourists. The Alhambra is a 1000-year-old Islamic fortress, perfectly situated. It was never taken by force (the Muslims surrendered to Isabel and Ferdinand) because it was so ideally located and reinforced. However, much of it was destroyed by French bombs. It was rebuilt in the 1920s or so in what the architects of the time thought was the ultimate Islamic palace. It's romanticized and basically made-up. It's not old, it's not accurate, it's just not real. (It is, however, beautiful). BUT. The French didn't destroy everything. Some of the original building remains, but it's not open to the public.

I took about a hundred pictures, but close to zero notes because I spent the whole three hours gazing around with my mouth open. Some highlights:



This is the Alcazar, the old military compound. The right side had houses for generals and higher-ups, the left was storehouses and armories.


This is the oldest part of the Alhambra. It's over 1000 years old. It was the entrance to a palace that stood here before the Alhambra was built (though the original palace was also named Alhambra, which means Red Castle).


The original main path up the mountain. It was patrolled at all times. This door was for civilians and visitors; soldiers used a door in the back, which is still used. This one is being excavated. When it was occupied, the mountain was stripped of trees and bushes so no one could hide there.

Islamic ideas of paradise feel pretty similar to my own.

Some of the last remaining original Islamic paintings. In its prime the whole building was painted (cheaper than 3D decorations. Still gaudy, but less durable). Anyway in this teeny tiny tower on the lower floor are the only original wall paintings that have survived. And on the floor above...

...is my favorite room. The walls were covered in 17th century Christian paintings, mostly depicting the Battle of Tunis. There were also birds and flowers and putti and every beautiful thing. They haven't been restored or fussed with, so the paint's a bit faded and there's graffiti scratched in everywhere. But I didn't really mind, because the dates were years like 1908, 1843, 1786, 1708!! I tried to take lots of pictures but the room was too small for the amount of people in there (my class of 15 or so) and we couldn't use flash. This panel was my favorite because of the boats, of course, and the blue blue blue, but I also loved the birds and flowers. Ah! I never wanted to leave.

Alas, I had to, and now the sun is out and the weekend is here, and I'm on to other beautiful things.

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Bib Rambla

Bib Rambla

Another beautiful day sunny Spain, so I decided to read for my independent study in Plaza Bib Rambla, which is near where I live and consequently near the cathedral. The plaza has been in use for nearly 1000 years as a bazaar and site for religious and social festivals. And I'm sitting there reading about it. Today it is a touristy place filled with cafes and restaurants and murky Arabic tourist shops with names like "La Medina" and "Espiritu de la Alhambra." It is also the home of the best churros y chocolate restaurant in Granada, and a nice place to sit in the sun if you don't mind solicitors, children, and pigeons. While I was reading, some hippies came near me and set up with their instruments and played Arabic music. The more things change....

Thursday, March 11, 2010

Por fin, sol, y la empieza de una fin de semana loca

Finally, sun, and the start of a crazy weekend

Sun in Granada today! Blues skies and ice cream. I went for a run today, my first in a while because I slipped and hurt my knee a few days ago. It felt good to put weight on it again and feel (relatively) solid. I pass so many beautiful things on my runs and my walks to class. Actually the whole city is breathtakingly beautiful. After being in the rain for so long, I'm walking the same streets and I can look up for the first time, and I see statues and balconies and windows and rooftop gardens spilling down 19th century facades.

This weekend is packed. Tomorrow I'm going to a movie screening in the morning, straight to the mountain to go hiking, and from there going straight to my friend's roommate's birthday party. Saturday I'll be in Cordoba all day, and Sunday depending on the weather we might be going to the beach, followed by Club Granada's soccer match! (I don't care if they are the worst team in Spain, I'll support Granada no matter what).

Sunday, March 07, 2010

¡TENEMOS PERRITO!

WE HAVE A PUPPY!

Today Anabel and I are puppysitting a French bulldog-looking puppy named Barton! He's very cute, but not very well trained. He bites everything. His special favorites: my boots, my sleeves, paper. Not nearly so favored: his pelota (ball). Furthermore, he doesn't understand my accent so I can't tell him to sit or be quiet or anything. But he's cute nonetheless. The best way to "play" with him seems to be to let him chew on the toe of my boot, which is what's happening now.


Barton loves me (as a snack)



What fun we have.


I went to mass today in the chapel of the cathedral, which is how I'm planning to do research there without paying. I wasn't very impressed with the chapel. The priest's microphone echoed too much and the recorded organ didn't help matters. The stained glass windows were scattered haphazardly and the colors they chose were too garish for the murky light. And the prayer candles were electric. Get it together, Spain. Next Sunday I'm planning to go to the main part of the cathedral, which is supposed to be a better (but longer) sermon. It'll be worth it to see the real interior.

More things. I came out of my room this morning to find Anabel watching Scooby Doo!!! So exciting. So we watched that for a while, after which came Bob Esponja (Spongebob!!) which was great. Spongebob is funnier in Spanish mostly because of the names. Bob Esponja, Patricio, Calamado....I couldn't catch Mr. Crab's equivalent. The theme song was in Spanish too! "Aaaaaa, ¿quien viva en piña abajo del mar? ¡Bob esponja!" The voices are also hilarious. Most Spanish dubs have really manly and excited voices (imagine a cheap, late-night ad in the states) and to hear the goofy, wobbly voices of Bob Esponja and Patricio was a surprise.

Dessert today was fresh, homemade magdalenas with blueberry jam, a fresh strawberry, and a pinch of brown sugar in a delicious little pile. Beat that.

Saturday, March 06, 2010

La crema de cacahuete

Peanut butter

They don't really do peanut butter in Spain. They sell one kind at the marcadona (the big supermarket) but it's very small and four euro and my friend Alex, who bought it anyway, says it's dry and not very delicious at all. Anabel went to California a year or so ago and was amazed at how much peanut butter Americans eat. The woman she was staying with had kids who ate peanut butter in some form for every meal and then dessert. And for snack they ate it out of the jar with a spoon. She told me this incredulously, expecting me to be shocked and ashamed of my countrymen, but I can relate to this. Maybe not breakfast, but everything else. PBJ for lunch with a Reeses, then pasta with peanut sauce for dinner and for dessert, peanut butter chip cookies. Yum yum yum. She didn't try peanut butter in the states, but she tried and loved chocolate chip cookies, which you also can't find in Spain. Now that she said that I'm going to be craving them.

I eat a lot more vegetables here. At first it was because I didn't want to be rude to Anabel, but I've started to enjoy them more and even order them for tapas. Katie will be surprised, I willingly ordered, ate, and enjoyed a zucchini...twice. I haven't warmed to mushrooms yet (they're slimy in every country) but I've cautiously widened my food horizons to include tomatoes, potatoes, onions, zucchini, and squash. Only in certain situations of course. I still don't want a tomato on my sandwich.

I miss peanut butter, but Mike has promised to bring me a jar when he visits. I miss steak, but I miss steak at school anyway. I can get chocolate on or in pretty much anything I could imagine here, so that's not a problem either. The food here is above and beyond anything I had expected. I prefer the meal schedule here to my stateside meal schedule. Even when it's rainy and grey, I love Granada.